Weaving a way out
Coming from the land of death, drought and child sale, it sounds like a fairy tale. However, it is true. Poor tribal women of Kalahandi are weaving a success story for themselves. In addition, what is even more gratifying is that educated urban women are lending them a hand. Life seemed to be an unending nightmare for Chhamani Majhi. Along with an ailing husband and old in-laws, she seemed to be heading for a starvation death, the inevitable destiny of most women like her in Kalahandi. But then ‘Nuakala’ happened to her. She was employed for spinning and in the very first month, she earned Rs 800. With that, she brought baby food for her daughter, a lantern to light her hut and clothes for her husband and in-laws. Life has taken a new dimension and seems meaningful. Kunti Majhi would have left Kalahandi in search of work and perhaps ended up as a bonded labourer somewhere. Then ‘Nuakala’ came to her village and she was ‘employed’ in weaving handloom fabric. Right in her village she is earning more than Rs.750 per month and is able to provide two square meals a day to her family. Rukmini Majhi’s family life is more balanced today. Her husband is off country liquor and her children get food and education. She is a supervisor at a ‘Nuakala’ spinning centre in her village. All these women from the Gond tribe in Kalahandi have left poverty and privation behind because of the handmade cotton ‘Nuakala’ garments produced by them, thanks to Kalahandi Vikash Parishad which has been working among the tribals of Kalahandi and Nuapada districts. Watershed management, relief work and a sustainable employment generation programme have been on the agenda. The collective effort is spearheaded by Amitav Banerjee, a marine engineer. He worked with MNCs and was based in Kolkata. He resigned his cushy job to pursue his goals in Kalahandi fulltime. Says Banerjee, “There was a substantial area of black cotton soil; suitable for cotton cultivation for which the water requirement is almost 20 times less as compared to paddy cultivation. Crop failure and resultant poverty could be avoided if cotton cultivation was promoted.”Banerjee got to work with social activist Rabi Das of KVP. Six villages were adopted and continuous spinning, processing and weaving work undertaken. Only in dyeing and bleaching men are engaged, spinning and weaving have become women’s preserve. Says Rabi Das, who has been working in Kalahandi for two decades, “It has made a tremendous difference to family life, with women becoming bread-earners. In fact, women are very sincere and good workers while men drop out and are not very persevering.”
This module is worker friendly too. Women follow a flexible timing. “We could not have done the job had there been strict timings because we have family responsibilities too. We come in the morning, then go back, cook food, take care of other chores and again come back to the centre in the afternoon and work till nightfall. If we work for six hours, we are able to earn Rs.25 to 30 per day,” reveals Chhabina Majhi of Bilenjar village where there is a central weaving centre. There are 30 looms in villages like Sunbaheli, Chatta, Jampada, Malpada, Malikimunda and Bilenjar. More than 100 tribal women have been earning their living. Banerjee is very happy. Says he, “I am very impressed with their work culture.These women are really hardworking and committed. They can change the face of Kalahandi, if they are provided with the right opportunity.” Self help through community participation’ has also caught on. Committed to self-help the tribal women of Malpada village offered free labour to set up a work centre in less than two months on land donated by local tribals. Now 12 women work at the centre and support their families. A sliver plant could ensure massive expansion of this project and bring down the rate of raw materials thus generating more income for the tribal women who could also be engaged in larger numbers. But the plant costs more than Rs 80 lakh. A project has been lying with the Planning Commission but has found no takers.
People involved with this noble cause are undeterred. ‘Nuakala’ (taking its name from ‘Nuapada’ and ‘Kalahandi’) garments and cotton fabrics have found champions in many city-bred women who have come forward to join hands with their tribal sisters to promote empowerment through self-employment. There are many doctors, professors and high-profile activists who are endorsing the cause of ‘Nuakala.’ Says Gayatri Das of Cuttack, wife of celebrity cardiologist J. P Das who is also involved with the project garments are prepared keeping in mind the latest trends and fashion. We have to reach out to all sections through exhibitions, retail counters and fashion shows in big cities and metros.” Nivedita Scudder, a high-profile social activist, says “We are determined to make our brand name ‘Nuakala’ as popular as ‘Fabindia’ which is not pure khadi but is still very much in demand. Designers are roped in and there is a constant attempt at improving the look and design.”